Posts Tagged ‘raynox 250’

That first published picture

Tuesday, October 6th, 2009

It started about 2 months ago. I had just been playing around with my Raynox 250 macro lens on my Panasonic fz28 and I had taken my first picture where I actually though… “hay, thats pretty good”. Im a bit of a harsh critic on myself so thats a rare moment for me.

I got the shot when I noticed several wasps eating tree sap that had fallen onto my car. By moving slowly they didn’t respond to my presence. I rested my elbows on my car roof and slow moved until close to the wasp. Once it was in focus I took several shots until I had the result I wanted.

Macro Wasp

Macro Wasp

A few weeks after, I was looking at the digital photographer forum and there was a post from one of their sister magazines, ‘Digital Camera Essentials’. They were asking for people to send in their photos if they fancy being featured in their readers images section. I wasn’t going to bother but I suddenly thought “what the hell, I may as well give it a shot”. I sent an email with 3 of my macro shots, one being the wasp above. I hit send expecting that to be the end of that and never hear from them again.

A couple of weeks passed and I had almost forgotten I had even sent the email. I logged into my email account as I do most mornings and there was an email from them. They apologized for the wait as a lot of images had been sent into them but they really like the wasp image and would love to use it. I actually got a little excited, they said they would be featuring it in the magazine 2 issues away. I went straight on-line and ordered it.

2 months later I get home on my lunch break and the mag was sitting there waiting to be opened. I open it up and there it was, my name next to my picture in a big glossy magazine.

I was very happy because my picture was also printed larger than all the other ones on the page.

Now its only a readers gallery but it sure is a nice feeling that a magazine thinks one of your pictures is good enough to print. Not only that but a picture taken on a point and shoot superzoom like the Panasonic fz28.

So why write this article? To show off? maybe a little, but mainly so that anyone out there new to photography who doubts their own work gives it a shot, you never know. You can hate your own work as much as you want but the people out there might love it. We all have to start somewhere. Now send off your images and get that confidence boost that will spur you forward.

Selective Colour – Photoshop tutorial

Friday, August 14th, 2009

Selective colour, also know as ‘selective black and white’ as well as ‘colour pop’, is when you make all but part of an image black and white to make the colours really stand out.

It is a fairly popular Photoshop technique and can create some really impressive results with not to much effort.

Using Photoshop you can change your photographs into eye catching shots no matter what camera you own.

Below is an example of selective colour. I have used this technique to make the flower pop out from the rest of the image. You can also adjust the brightness of the black and white areas to make your subject stand out even more.

There are many methods to create this effect but I will be showing you the 2 I use most. The reason I will be showing you 2 methods is because it depends on the image which one works best.

Selective colour – method 1

This is the longer but more accurate of the 2 methods. It also gives you a little bit of extra freedom to play around with the image exactly how you want to.

First lets get an image.

You now need to decide what parts of the image you want to be in colour. I’m going to do the obvious on this one. I’m going to leave the red shell of the ladybug in colour and let the rest be black and white. This should really help emphasize the ladybug.

Add a Hew / Saturation adjustment layer

This will place a new adjustment layer above your image. Now on the Hue / Saturation options, the colour should be on ‘Master’, move the saturation slider all the way to the left. The image will now appear black and white.

Now we need to use the Hue / Saturation layers mask to reveal the parts we want to be in colour. Click on the layer mask so it is selected (the white box). Now using a brush with a hardness of 80% and in the colour black, start to paint the colour back onto the page.

Remember to use different size brushes for accuracy. Zoom right in and use small brushes for the edges. You can change brush sizes quickly using the ‘[' and ']‘ keys. On areas like the top of the shell you may notice the focus blurs making it hard to colour accurately. If you have trouble try colouring past the shell so some of the background is now in colour as well. Now change the colour to white, use a larger brush with a hardness of about 20-40% and carefully make the background black and white again. The softer larger brush will fade the colour better giving a cleaner result.

The basic work is now complete. However its always a good idea to tweak the image further for greater effect. First lets adjust the black and white areas of the image.

Click on your Hue / Saturation adjustment layer to bring up the options window again. Now where the drop down menu says ‘Master’, change this to reds and adjust the lightness slider.

Increasing the red lightness on this image makes the background a bit brighter.

Now repeat this for each of the colour options on the drop down menu until the image is how you want it. The main colours i changed were the red (increased) and the blue and cyan’s which i decreased. This made the blue reflections on the ladybug turn black.

Now we need to adjust the colour parts of the image. To do this we need a new Hue / saturation adjustment layer. Select your image layer (the bottom layer) and then create the new adjustment layer,  Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Hue / Saturation.

If using elements click the OK button and don’t change anything yet.

We need to make sure only the coloured part of the image effected.

To do this move your mouse cursor over the mask for the first Hue / Saturation adjustment layer you made. Hold down the Ctrl key and click. A selection line should appear around all the black and white parts of the image.

Now select the mask on the new Hue / Saturation adjustment layer you made. Fill in the selected area with black. Do this either with the paint bucked tool or by going  Edit > Fill.

You will now have a mask that is the opposite of the black and white layer mask and should only effect the coloured part of the image.

Open up the options for the new Hue / Saturation adjustment layer by clicking on it. Change the drop down menu to reds. Move the hue slider a bit to the left and the shell will become more red. For fun try moving the hue slider about and you will see it can be changed all sorts of colours.

Your image is now complete

Selective colour – method 2

This second method is faster but will only work on images where you want all of that particular colour in the image to stand out. So for an image with a red bug on a red wall (such as the first image) it wont work. But for an image of a red bug on green grass then this method could work just great.

Lets see if i can find an image like that.

Oh look at that…. perfect.

First step is to add a Hue / Saturation adjustment layer. Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Hue / Saturation. You want the reds to still be in colour so you need to move the saturation slider all the way to the left for every colour in the drop down menu APART FROM Reds and Master.

As you de-saturate each colour you will see more and more of the image turn black and white. When your done, just the reds should remain. Now select reds from the drop down menu and adjust the hue to make the shell more red.

As before, feel free to go back to the other colours and adjust there lightness to get the desired effect.

Your done.

Get more from your superzoom using a conversion lens

Tuesday, August 11th, 2009

Superzooms have a fantastic zoom range as it is, but as with everything you buy, you always end up wanting more.

A conversion lens gives you that extra that you need for a reasonable price. These can be bought for both bridge cameras (advanced superzooms and compacts) as well as DSLR’s.

The fz-28 already has a rather large zoom range. Its macro mode allows you to focus as little as 1cm away when using the wide angle (no zoom) and 1 meter away at full zoom. This is great for taking photos of flowers. For example:

It also has a great telephoto of 486mm (35 mm equivalent) allowing you to take great close ups of wildlife such as this

But still you will want more. You see these pictures of insects taking up the whole frame and wonder how on earth that shot got taken. You see full frame pictures of baby animals that should be easily startled.

Well for these types of shots you need a few things. Firstly, and most importantly, you will need a macro lens for the super small and tele converter for the extra zoom.

First lets talk about my favourite of the two, the macro lens. This is possibly one of the best and most fun bits of kit you can buy for a camera because the difference it makes is huge. The macro lens i bought is called the Raynox 250. It simply clips on to the front of various size lenses so has no screw thread. Some cameras (such as the fz-28) will need an adaptor tube to fit this, but its worth it. The adaptor tube is called the DMW-LA3 E. This same tube will allow you to fit the Tcon-17 tele converter as well.

The raynox 250 macro lens will do a few things.
-It will magnify your subject by about 3 times
-It will massively reduce the depth of field. So much so that it will only be a few mm big
-It will make your focusing distance about 11-13 cm away depending on the zoom.

Don’t be fooled by the fact that the focusing distance gets increased compared to using full wide angle without this lens where you get a 1cm focus distance. As its wide angle you still see a lot of the frame. On the fz-28, as you zoom the focus distance changes. At full zoom it is 1 meter away and will give a similar close up as using 1cm away at the wide angle. With the raynox attached its about 12cm at FULL telephoto.  Mixed with the 3X magnification the lens gives you really do get extream close ups.

Before i show you some examples this next image is about as close as you can get with the standard lens. This doesnt include massively croping an image as that would make the image tiny and fairly unusable for anything but the web. This next image was still cropped a lot but it remains a fairly usable size

That isnt a bad result of course. You get a nice enough picture and you can pic up the detail on the bees wings.

But compaired to the following, this is nothing. These are some of my favourite macro shots i have taken recently using the Raynox 250.

As you can see you can get incredibly close to your subject with one of these lenses. The detail you can pick up it quite incredible. From these pictures you can see what i was talking about with having a very small depth of field. In the first picture of the fly you only get the flys head in focus. That is at full zoom. You can increase the depth by reducing the  zoom and also by closing the aperture but dont expect it to increase by much.

Other things you need to know about using a macro lens is that you really need a lot of light and you need to be stable. I tend to get myself into a possition where i can rest my elbows on something, otherwise you rock back and forwards to much making it incredibly hard to get a shot in focus. I also only do this on a sunny, bright day to get enough natural light. You can use a flash but the light looks very unatural and the final image is never as pleasing to the eye. Try and stick to shutter speeds at a bare minimum of 1/125. You will be suffering from camera shake (even with image stabalisation) at this sort of magnification and you need to counter it with as fast a shutter speed as possible.

The most important tip you will need to know is this. Move slowly. If you move slowly the bugs dont even seem to know your there. Sudden fast movments will send them packing. The fly head shot i got, i managed to move a chair and sit next to it simply by moving slowly.

Now onto tele converter lenses. The one I own is the TCON-17. This gives you a 1.7x magnification. It has a few other advantages as well as some disadvantages. Lets get the bad stuff out the way first. Teleconverters eat up light. You will need very good light to get decent shutter speeds. If you only plan to use them on a sunny day then this isnt really a problem but in low light they are a bad idea as cameras struggle enough in those situations already. The other downside is that almost all teleconverters will have soft edges to the images. Luckily i have found the TCON-17 to not suffer to badly from this. The center and even most the frame stays pretty sharp with only the edges being slightly soft, not really enough to cause to much of a problem but the issue does exist. One extra thing to note is that you will of course get even more camera shake. Make sure your in a stable position when using one.

Now for the good. You increase your zoom by 1.7x. That alone is pretty cool. This turns my 486mm zoom into a HUGE 826mm zoom. The other bonus i have found is that i can use it to increase the max shutter speed of the fz-28′s max zoom without the teleconverter. That sounds confusing but i shall explain. The fz-28 has a max shutter speed of 1/2000 at the a wide angle. But this decreases to 1/1300 at the max telephoto. And that only if you close the aperture. If you set the aperture to be wide open (4.4) then this decreases to 1/1000. This is still fairly fast but for subjects such as sports and wildlife its nice to be able to get to about 1/1500 to really freeze the action. So heres what i found out. With the Tcon-17 attached i can set the camera to 10x zoom. this will give me about the same as 18x zoom without the tele converter attached. Becase the camera isnt zoomed as much it now allows me to shoot at 1/1300 at its max aperture (and its aperture is larger as its not as zoomed, about 3.7) and 1/1600 if you close the aperture up a bit. This is a nice shutter speed increase for sunny days when light is in abundance.

So thats the pluses and minuses. Now for the example shots. Ducklings are nice to shoot but to get a full frame shot of them bobbing in the water is hard if you dont fancy a swim. What you need is more zoom. Well heres one i got using this lens.

and heres one of a duck splashing about in the middle of the pond

without the lens i wouldn’t have got as close and therefore not as much detail.

Some people could argue that you could just use the EZ (extra zoom) function to get closer but that isnt really the same. Cameras that offer this extra zoom in exchange for less mega pixels are basically just cropping the image and it isn’t real zoom. Its a nice feature but if your after maximum detail its best you stay clear. Also its nothing you cant just do your self more accurately in post processing later on.

Out of the two lenses  i would highly recommend a macro lens to anyone. It gives you a totally new area of photography you can cover and turns your back garden into a jungle of insects.

The teleconverter is also fun and a good purchase but it is used a lot less as more often than not the normal (albeit large) zoom range of this sort of camera is more than enough.

Here are the amazon links to the 2 lenses and the adaptor tube.

Adaptor tube for panasonic fz-18 and 28 (and i imagin the new fz-38 as well)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Panasonic-5025232438402-DMW-LA3-E/dp/B000ULPK2C/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1250001878&sr=8-4

The Tcon-17 1.7X tele converter
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Olympus-Conversion-TCON-17-SP-550UZ-C-5050/dp/B0002HNR6A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1250001878&sr=8-1

and lastly the pick of the litter. The Raynox 250 macro lens
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Raynox-RADCR-0250-DCR-250/dp/B000A1SZ2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1250004984&sr=1-1